Monday, June 11, 2012

Hing Kee: Not Your Average Ramen Noodles

While we are both big fans of the many delicacies that ballparks, stadiums and arenas have to offer, sometimes it's good to mix it up a little.  So, a couple of weekends ago we decided to get some lunch in Chinatown before heading to the Sox game.  We briefly discussed trying a new place, but quickly settled on Hing Kee, because it's hard to pass up a big bowl of soup with their homemade, hand-pulled noodles and a free floor show.  Chef Chang Ming Liu stands at a table in the front of the restaurant and makes the noodles while diners watch.  Best of all, he does it with the detached air of someone whose mastered this skill to the point where his hands just go through the motions while his brain is writing the next great American novel or unraveling the mysteries of black holes. As a side note, since this guy spends his days reducing enormous hunks of dough into miles of delicate noodles with nothing but his bare hands, his arms and upper body resemble Popeye's after he's had his can of spinach (tattoos included).  So, with visions of ramen noodles dancing in our heads (and hopes for a Sox win), we headed south on the Red Line.



Drinks
There was the usual tea and what-not that your usual Chinese restaurant would offer, including a long list of smoothies.  Since it was a warm day, Beth opted for a watermelon smoothie that was summer in a glass.  As usual, Neil opted for water and Diet Coke since frosty cold beverages would be coming shortly at the game.


Beth and Her Watermelon Smoothie



Food
We had been to Hing Kee a few times before, but their menu is extensive, so we really hadn't tried much.  Trying to step out of our comfort zone a bit, we opted to start our meal with the "salted pepper fish ball" appetizer.  Having no idea what to expect, we were pleasantly surprised when a plate arrived with several super ball sized items on a bed of lettuce.  They were lightly fried and the inside was a uniformly white and springy concoction that had a mild fish flavor.  We thought that maybe tapioca was responsible for the texture and bounce.  It was garnished with some chopped jalapeno, which added a nice bite to the mild dish.

Salted Pepper Fish Balls

Beth had her usual entree, the BBQ duck soup with ramen noodles.  The noodles were the star of this dish, but everything else in the bowl played a good supporting role.  The broth was lightly seasoned with some sort of licorice root and citrus rind.  Nesting with the noodles were scallions, cilantro, baby bok choy, a hard boiled egg cut in half and a generous amount of tender duck (and most importantly, duck skin!). It all came together nicely and made for a satisfying meal. 

BBQ Duck Soup with Ramen Noodles

Neil opted for the braised beef soup.  His broth was flavored with star anise and red pepper flakes.  Accompanying the noodles were mushrooms, baby bok choy, scallions, cilantro, celery, egg, and hunks of beef.  The beef was tasty and mixed well with the broth, which had a unique and complex flavor with all its ingredients.  The noodles do make the dish though, since you don't get much fresher than being prepared just minutes before!

Braised Beef Soup


Overall
On the day we visited, Chef Chang Ming Liu was not to be found, so that was a bit of a bummer.  The restaurant isn't large and it's pretty no frills.  The service is brisk, and the tables turn over pretty quickly, but diners don't feel rushed.   We've enjoyed all the food we've tried at this place, but he ramen noodles are definitely the star attraction.  They are slightly chewy but delicate, and manage to make for a hearty, satisfying meal.

Foreign Factor
7 out of 10.  Most of the staff and customers were of Asian descent and weren't conversing in English, but the place was not unwelcoming to us.  The menu was written in both English and Chinese, but everything had a description and many dishes had photos.  


What We Learned
We've explored Chinatown a bit on past visits and it seems like there's always something new to see, but just watching the noodle guy is enough.  Even though we've watched him several times, it's pretty hard to fathom how he makes these delicate noodles with just flour, salt, water and his bare hands.  Here's a brief YouTube video that's a close approximation of what Chef Chang Ming Liu does (at Hing Kee they use a lot less flour and don't make the noodles so thin).  The term for making these noodles is la-mian and there are a few different regions that make them and each uses a different technique.  At Hing Kee, the chef uses the Beijing style of preparation.

More
To learn more about the Chinese immigrant experience in Chicago, visit the Chinese-American Museum.  The staff are friendly, it has both permanent and rotating exhibits and it's located right in Chinatown.  You can also keep an eye out for the Chicago Cultural Center's neighborhood tours.  These are offered through the Cultural center directly and through the Chicago World Kitchen.

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