Sunday, January 15, 2012

Marrakech Cuisine: a taste of Morocco

When it gets really cold and snowy and gray in Chicago, it's nice to let your mind wander to somewhere warm and exotic.  With a destination off the beaten path planned for later in the evening, we set about to find a new and different restaurant in a new and different (to us) part of town.  After some digging around on Google, a winner quickly presented itself.  What would take the chill off and warm your taste buds better than some Moroccan food?  The reviews online warned to not let the street view scare you off, so we set out in the freezing winter to check out Marrakech Cuisine.  When you walk up to the restaurant, the outside appearance lived up to the billing.  This is the kind of place you could walk (or likely drive) by a hundred times and not look at twice.  When we walked in, it appeared to be empty of people, but as you walked towards the back, you quickly realize that the real action is the back half of the room, where a small bar/service area is set with eight or so small tables around it.  We came in, got a table, and began our Moroccan adventure!



Drinks:
One of the real charms of many ethnic restaurants in Chicago is BYOB.  When you don't run up a big bar bill, you can get a great meal for next to nothing!  Many people were enjoying tea, but we opted for glasses of water to go with our California Zinfandel (there was a $3 corkage fee).  The big wine went well with the big spices!

Food:
Going in, we didn't have a good idea of what Moroccan cuisine would entail.  I thought it would have a more African influence than traditional Mediterranean food, while Beth expected it to be the opposite.  The first thing you notice coming in is the great smell.  These folks obviously know their spices!  The menu does have a mix of things you would expect to see on a Mediterranean menu (kabobs and hummus) and some stuff I've never heard of (tajine and pastille).  To start off, we went with zaalouk, an eggplant spread mixed with tomatoes, cilantro, and garlic. The waiter told us that the eggplant had been grilled, which gave the dip a nice smoky flavor that was balanced by the sweetness and acidity of the tomatoes.  We wiped the dish clean with our pita bread and eagerly awaited the next course.

Neil had Fez Tajine, a tender, flavorful lamb shank in a sweet-savory sauce that we learned was flavored with a blend of spices called Ras el hanout, or "head of the shop."  Just like Dave Chappelle, we detected a hint of nutmeg.
Fez Tajine

Beth's fish pastille was a pocket of phyllo dough packed with mushrooms, rice noodles and fish.  The tender but not overly cooked mushrooms were the predominant flavor and the crunch of the phyllo dough was a nice contrast.
Fish Pastille

Not quite ready for the meal to end, we ordered the baklava.  It was spiced perfectly and the phyllo had a great texture.  Our waiter told us that it was all homemade and only sweetened with honey, no sugar.  The flavor was great and it wasn't too sweet.  The spices gave it a great taste and it was a fantastic way to end dinner.

Baklava


OVERALL

The place was cozy and played what we can't say for sure but assumed was Moroccan music a manageable decibel level. There were reproductions of vintage travel posters on the wall. Our waiter was very friendly and happy to answer any questions we had. He was excited that it was our first time eating Moroccan cuisine and wanted it be great for us. Marrakech Cuisine didn't disappoint!

FOREIGN FACTOR (1= feels like mom's kitchen, 10 = this must come from another planet)
6 - The decor and music made an effort to reflect the culture. The menu had photos and the wait staff was great at providing additional information about the food, when requested. Being painfully white (but not in the way the Nazis would prefer) we're always a little nervous about being out of our Wonderbread element, but this place was very welcoming. They were even proactive enough as to be prepared for any anti-immigrant sentiment by hanging a large American flag and photo of Obama (who our waiter bore a striking resemblance to) on the back wall, although, on further reflection, if they really wanted to appeal to those types, it should probably have been a photo of Newt or Rick. They answered and anticipated our questions to make the place very inviting and were proud to point out that what they lacked in decor, they made up for in flavor.

WHAT WE LEARNED

The Moroccans know their spices! The "head of the shop," their homemade blend of spices, was a great mix of up to 100 different spices and showed off a depth of flavor that really made the meal. Beth was surprised at the liberal use of cilantro and the rice vermicelli noodles in her dish, as she normally associates these things with Vietnamese cuisine.

EXPLORE FURTHER
Try The Food of Morocco cookbook by Paula Wolfert (Ecco Books, $45)

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